Allium porrum (Leeks)

A hot bowl of potage au poireau – leek soup – is perhaps my favorite winter comfort.

In much of northern Europe, people commonly to keep a small vegetable garden with a few hardy vegetables that last all winter. In French, these little kitchen gardens are colloquially known as 'potagers' and the pureed soups made from their produce as 'potage.'

Potage au poireau makes use of two hardy staples of the winter potager: leeks and carrots. As a former exchange student to Belgium, I fondly remember being sent out to pull leeks from the semi-frozen earth. (I was not so fond of the task at time). I have equally fond memories warm bowls of potage preceding almost every dinner in the winter months.

Even here in Maine – I'm told – an enterprising gardener can keep leeks in the ground for winter harvest... a sturdy row cover or good snow shovel may come in handy, though.

Leeks are a member of the same genus that includes onions, chives and shallots. They are milder but they lend the same aromatic quality to soups and casseroles. The best use of leeks, though, is in soups and my favorite leek soup is a simple potage.

I like to think of potage a first principle in winter soups: to the basic form, new elements can be added resulting in surprising variation. Currently, my favorite variation is to leave out the carrots and replace the potato with 3 cups of rutabaga and a drizzle of maple syrup.

But most combinations of winter vegetables and simple spicing produce equally tasty results. I've even had excellent potages that included heart of palm and avocado.In winter, I tend to make a large pot most the week-ends and store Ball jars of soup in the fridge for weekday lunches. Here's the basic recipe...

Potage au poireau

3 large leeks

1 large potato, peeled and quartered

2 carrots, chopped

1 tbls butter

2 cups chicken or vegetable stock

¼ tsp cloves

salt and pepper

2 to 4 cups water

1. Remove the bottom inch and most of the greens from the leeks. (Retain the greens for use in stocks). Slice the leeks length-wise and carefully clean them. Dirt can find its way surprising far down into the white part of a leek.

2. Melt the butter in a large soup pot. Slice leeks into ½" circles. Cook the leeks over a high heat, stirring occasionally.

3. After a minute or two, add the carrots and potatoes. Continue cooking over high heat until the leeks become limp (about 5 minutes).

4. Add the stock and reduce the heat to medium. Cook another 10 to 15 minutes.

5. When the potatoes and carrots are fully cooked, transfer the soup to a blender or food processor. Blend until smooth.

6. Return the soup to the original soup pot. Add 2 cups of water (for a thicker soup) or 4 cups of water (for a thinner soup). Garnish with ¼ tsp ground cloves and salt and pepper to taste.